Leading Naturopath Dishes the Dirt on Sunscreen

We wanted the lowdown on natural sunscreen so we went to the certified Naturopath who first introduced high SPF chemical-free sunscreen to the US back in 2004 - Dr. Tony Kovacs. Originally from Australia, Kovacs is now involved with research & development at Soleo Organics in San Clemente, California.

1. How do natural and conventional sunscreens differ?

Natural (there is only one, ie. zinc) and conventional (chemical) differ in that zinc is a “physical” sunscreen as it reflects and/or scatters UV light, whereas the conventional chemical sunscreens, ie. containing titanium, oxybenzone, methoxycinnamate, homosalate, etc. absorb UV light. It is via this absorbing action that toxic and dangerous new compounds are formed.

So, they primarily differ in the manner they deal with the UV light and the resultant byproducts, if any that occur as a result of this action. Zinc is stable, non absorbing and safe. Chemical sunscreens are linked with DNA damage, oestrogen mimicking, endocrine disruption, free radical production, damage to the coral reefs and ecosystem disruption.

2. We hear that higher SPF's are good for some skin conditions but we also hear that anything over SPF 30 is simply about marketing. What's this all about?

It is a marketing hype of sorts. When SPF levels are portrayed on a graph, the graph tends to plateau around SPF 32-35. Any number above that is negligible with regard to protection. Ie an SPF 100 may give an extra 1% protection (at most) but the reality of being able to stay out in the sun longer is a complete hoax. For example, if an SPF 30+ will offer protection of up to 4 hours, then it stands to reason that an SPF 60 would offer 8 hours and therefore and SPF 100 would be 10 hours. This is definitely not the case as no sunscreen can offer protection for that period of time. You are fundamentally paying more money, for a greater concentration of toxic chemicals and receiving very little, if any extra benefit.

3. What is the benefit of biodegradable sunscreen and why should we consider trying it out?

Biodegradability touches on a number of issues. Awareness for the consumer to consider products that breakdown safely in the environment and hence do not interfere with the natural balance within the ecosystem. The use of ingredients that are largely non toxic in their main usage form as well as their breakdown form. Biodegradable sunscreen addresses the issue of harm to the environment primarily. If the sunscreen is not biodegradable then the toxic compounds (formed prior to and after photactivation) will have a direct effect on the environments they are introduced to. They will create issues either by interfering with the reproductive cycles of the flora and fauna (nearly all of them), affecting the nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soils (titanium dioxide) or at worst causing DNA damage and possible mutations within the animals they influence. Bleaching of the coral reefs is just one example.

Learn more about natural, biodegradable sunscreen at Lavish & Lime. Visit the Natural Skincare category at Lavish & Lime for a range of natural and non-toxic sunscreen, insect repellent, hand sanitizer and more.

Designer Interview: Vinyl can be Eco-Friendly with Astrosatchel

Vinyl can be eco-friendly? you ask. Yes actually, says Janna Hurtzig, the creator behind Vancouver's own design gem, Astrosatchel. Our gorgeous line of Astrosatchel shoulder totes, clutches and change purses are an example of green living and good looking going hand in hand. Read on as Janna explains...

What was your inspiration behind the creation of the original Astrosatchel shoulder tote? How did you come up with the name?

I started making Astrosatchel bags in 1998 because I couldn't find a bag that I liked that was made in Canada. Initially I wanted to use astro-turf, but I couldn't find anything soft enough, so I settled on vinyl. I liked that it was durable and bright, yet water proof - perfect for Vancouver. The name was easy: the bags were going to be fun, with a space age feel to them, so I thought Astro was a good place to start, and Satchel because I was making bags.

Why did you choose to work with naugahyde vinyl? What is the manufacturing process the bags go through?

I started using the Naugahyde vinyl because of the choices of colours available, and because I could reorder it as needed. I didn't want to use fabrics that I wasn't sure I could get again, in case the products really took off, which they did!!

When we make the bags in our studio, we start by hand cutting the individual pieces for the bag, which we sew together using industrial sewing machines. The applique images are cut from any scraps left over from when we cut the bags--- hardly anything goes to waste. We don't use any adhesives in our process. Our bags are lined with nylon, which adds additional strength to the bag a well as finishing the bag off nicely. We use velcro closures as these are easy to adjust and are relatively fail-safe.

I think as a designer it is important to create things that are aesthetically pleasing, but are also highly functional, with a lot of thought given to the end use. We sew everything to last, which is almost the anti-thesis these days in manufacturing.

I like simplicity in design--- quite often products are made with lots of bells and whistles, but the time goes into making the bells and whistles, not what they are attached to. My bags are made to be versatile and durable, items that you use for years rather than for a season and then it's on to something else.

Most manufacturing processes are highly mechanised: items are stamped out on presses in huge quantities, while we only cut what we need, which eliminates over production...... most manufacturing focuses on making quantity in a short period of time, while we focus on quality first and foremost.

If naugahyde vinyl is man made, how can your bags be considered eco-friendly?

The Naugahyde brand of vinyl is a man made fabric, but I see eco aspects to it: the vinyl is union made in the United States, which is better than overseas-made goods as it reduces the amount of traveling the fabric does, and there is better environmental law in the US as opposed to, say, China, where many textiles are coming from these days, including eco-friendly ones. I like to know that the person who made my fabric was fairly paid for their work as well.

As the fabric I use is durable, it will not require replacement as often as lesser quality vinyl, which can crack in cold temperatures: Naugahyde is fine for colder places such as Edmonton and Winnipeg. I think the durability aspect is a huge consideration--- why buy products that won't hold up to use: just as much energy goes into their production as items that will last a long time. Lower quality vinyl has given all vinyl a bad reputation, but the Naugahyde I'm using is upholstery grade, heavy duty stuff.

When I tell people I use vinyl, the assume that it's because "leather is so expensive", which is not my reason at all.

Mostly, the vinyl is a replacement for leather - even if people are eating the meat portion of the animal, the leather is a byproduct of an environmentally hazardous industry. While leather is initially a 'natural product', by the time it is chemically treated for use, it isn't natural anymore, and the environmental impacts of the leather industry are huge: animals require land, water, feed (more land, more water), and transport, while creating huge amounts of carbon dioxide gas (both by the animal itself, and from transport), and waste products (poop) that enter the environment and create problems, like contamination to drinking water.

There is no animal cruelty involved with Naugahyde vinyl, so while it's not a natural fabric, I sleep easier at night knowing that when people buy my products, they are buying a cruelty free item: no animal cruelty, or sweatshop labour.

An added bonus is that the vinyl is already waterproof: there's no need to spray it down with waterproofing spray, as you would with a leather bag: more chemicals.

I personally think that we need to rethink a lot of how we live day to day: choosing to purchase better quality items with years of use in them as opposed to cheaper items that end up in the trash...... every product gets thrown away eventually, but if we are consuming fewer products in the first place, that's a good start.

Thanks for the insight Janna! View our collection of Janna's stunning Astrosatchel bags at Lavish & Lime.

Designer Interview: Adea Chung is Billy Would

We're really excited to be working with Adea Chung, the designer behind our new recycled wood jewellery line. She works right here in Vancouver under the label Billy Would and guess what? She's the subject our debut designer interview. Look for more designer interviews over the coming weeks.

How did you come up with the idea of making jewellery using recycled wood? Was it difficult to turn the idea into actual pieces?

I first started making jewellery out of purchased exotic hardwoods from local stores. The colours and textures were incredible and I loved picking out choice pieces. This method was short lived as I soon discovered none of the suppliers could guarantee how the trees were harvested.

I tried working with FSC certified wood as well but it was lacking the beauty and strength for jewellery. Constantly striving to reduce my carbon footprint in all aspects of life, it took a few short emails to local woodworkers and shops to connect with some really great people. Because the amount of wood needed for jewellery is small, I'm able to score some really great pieces that may be too small to work with for a guitar maker but perfect for me.

Through networking with all kinds of woodworkers and some creative "salvaging" (ie:old dressers and damaged floor boards) I keep each piece one of a kind and am always getting to work with new woods.

Coming from a family full of artists including a father who was always creating incredible wood carvings, working with wood and tools in the shop is like home.

How long have you been designing jewellery? Have you done other things along the way or have you followed a direct path to founding your own company?

I've only been designing and creating jewellery for about two years but I feel like I've learned so much in that time. Over the years, I've got the chance to do all kinds of things that I'm sure in some way or another lead to working for myself. Working at a heli ski company, as a bank teller, at a massage school, and of course being a mom.

I've always enjoyed art and creating in almost any form. I feel so lucky to be able to do something I love and get to see others enjoy it as much as I do.

What inspires you to come up with new designs?

I'm inspired by almost everything! Obviously nature and shapes are some of my favourites to express. Different pieces of wood with unique lines and colours I try to show off. Creating clean simple designs that allow the eye to appreciate the actual wood.

My biggest inspiration would have to be my five year old daughter. I've "borrowed" a lot of her designs (stars and hearts) and even used her middle name (billy) She's definitively my biggest critic too though.

What's the hardest part of your job? What's the best part of your job?

The hardest part of my job is probably the business end of things and the marketing. It's also one of the most enjoyable too, learning the entire aspect of starting and running a business gives you a great sense of appreciation and respect for others doing the same thing. Participating in shows and fashion markets were never something that appealed to me in the past but since doing them I have grown to love the interaction. It's so much fun to watch people enjoy and wear something you created.

Do you have any advice for designers interested in following a similar path?

Pick something you enjoy and go for it! Don't be scared to ask for help and support, you want to still love it at the end of the day.

Thanks Adea! You can check out Adea's stunning designs at Lavish & Lime.